Tag Archives: Tagalong Tour

Birdsville to Alice Springs Simpson Desert Crossing

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We woke up early and with a mixture of excitement and anxiety had breakfast and packed the car. Once our morning briefing was over we left Birdsville behind to cross the worlds largest sand dune desert.

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No, I wasn’t letting Alec run around in the desert with no shoes on. I got him out of the car just for the photo. This was often problematic. He didn’t like the fly’s. I don’t blame him. They were terrible.

It will take 3 days to travel the 600 kilometres between Birdsville and Mt Dare. This is the real deal. Once we start the crossing there will be limited help. Medical or otherwise. A vehicle recovery service is based at Birdsville and Mt Dare. As you could imagine the service does not come cheap and is not covered by any of the automotive club membership’s. RACQ, NRMA etc. We carried 140 litres of fuel, 50 litres of water and enough food to feed an army for a week. As well the usual spare parts, tools and first aid.

We drove the 40km to the edge of the Simpson desert and to the first and the largest sand dune of the Simpson desert. Big Red. Here we dropped tyres pressures and had another short talk with our group leader. We then proceeded one by one to cross the first of many dunes that we would have to navigate over the next three days.

Forty metres at its highest point big red has to be crossed if traveling east to west or vis versa. However the main track doesn’t take you over 40 metres of dune. You drive over a smaller section know as little red. Big red is reserved for the people who want to challenge themselves and there vehicles.

On our rest day in Birdsville, most of the group went out and tackled big red. Much easier when not loaded up with fuel, water and camping gear. Alec and myself decided not to go and have an easy day. We both needed it. We would have the opportunity to try the following day as part of the crossing.

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Everyone gathered on the western side of big red. There is a number of tracks to try. The left hand one being the hardest.

Big red is north along the dune about 500 metres from little red. Myself and a couple of other’s had a go at the various different routes up the step section of the dune. Did I make it up? You will have to watch the video below.

I tried a couple of times. Each time I only just missed out. I could have tried different tyres pressure, larger run up or one of the easier tracks. But I was concern with my fuel usage and time was getting on. After all we were about to cross a desert. I was little bit disappointed I didn’t make it up. Maybe next time.

After our play on big red we headed west into the desert. Over the next three day’s we drove up and down sand dunes, rolled across flat salt lakes and felt and saw the isolation and beauty of the desert. The absolute vastness of Australia is really brought home when after two long days of travel, you crest a dune and you can still see nothing but more dunes. It really is an amazing experience and something that no picture can truly capture.

But I going to try anyway. Because pictures are much better than reading my dribble.

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Alec was fascinated by the salt lakes.

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Alec standing at Poeppel corner. The intersection of the South Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland borders.

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This is what happen’s when you give a four-year old a go pro.

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It’s amazing the reaction Alec got with the camera. I certainty don’t get this sort of excitement when I have the camera.

By mid morning on the third day the sand dunes started to become smaller and the track less sandy. We stopped for lunch at an abandoned oil well. It is now a running bore, creating a small oasis in the desert. While stopped we inflated our tyres back to gravel road pressures. The soft sand dunes behind us now.

After lunch we continued along the dry and dusty track to Dalhousie ruins. The ruins were the original homestead of the first settles in the area. It’s hard to believe that a living was made from such a vast and unforgiving landscape. The area is no longer farmed and is part of the Witjira National Park. We left the ruins and made our way to Dalhousie Springs. Our camp for the night.

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Alec in front of some of the Dalhousie ruins. You have to be tough to live out here.

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Alec enjoying a swim in the Dahousie springs.

Once camp was set up we had a swim in the spring. It was like having a warm bath. Which was good, we hadn’t had a bath or shower for three days.

We spent the night in the tent. We were warned that the mosquitoes would be bad. This created a bit of a problem. Normally we would have dinner early before the mosquitoes arrived. We couldn’t do that this time as the fly’s were bad. I wasn’t taking any risks, mosquitoes love Alec. I decided we would eat a whatever was handy meal in the tent and chill till bed time. We both had fun reading books and playing games till we both nodded of to the sound of dingo’s howling in the distant.

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 I couldn’t cook so this is what we had. It wasn’t very flash but it filled our bellies and we didn’t get eaten by mosquitos.

The next morning we set off to visit the first slice of civilisation that we had seen since leaving Birdsville three days earlier. Mt Dare Hotel. Which is the finishing point of our Simpson desert crossing. Here we fueled up the cars, had lunch, toke photo’s and enjoyed the feeling of satisfaction of what we had achieved. Alec even got a well deserved ice cream.IMG_3917IMG_0558

We then headed north, leaving South Australia and entering Northern Territory and to our last camp for the tour. Old Anandado Station. Our camp was situated at the old homestead of outback pioneer Molly Clark. She passed away in 2012. The homestead has been preserved as a museum and is open to the public for viewing.

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It was green around the homestead. Some very localised rain had fallen in the area. 

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The resting place of Molly Clark. Also in the photo is the current caretaker. He has lived and worked in the area most his life. Well worth a chat around the camp fire.

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Not a bad sunset.

We had a slow start in the morning for our last day of the tour. Alice Springs our destination and a day of driving. However it was some of the most interesting driving on the tour.

 

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We traveled parallel with the dunes for a some time. For some reason I really enjoyed the drive.

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As we got closer to Alice Springs the dunes stopped and the mountain ranges started.

We were making good time and was approximately 150km away from Alice Springs when one of our group called over the radio. Their four-wheel drive had lost drive and had no choice but to pull over. The transmission had sprung a bad leak and no road side repair would be able to get them any further. A tow truck was the only option.

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Getting the vehicle off the track and into the shade.It will be some time before the tow truck would arrive.

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Rest in Pieces. Oh so close.

We left the stricken vehicle and made our way to Alice springs. We found a bed in a caravan park and got ready for our final meal together at the local sports club. Over dinner we recounted our adventures, laughed about the mishaps and exchanged contact details. Tomorrow we would be going our separate ways. I could not of asked for a better bunch of people to travel with.

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We made it.

 

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Nine started seven finished. We had another one of the group leave after we crossed the desert due to health reasons.

 

 

 The Award For The Worst Place To Stop For Lunch.

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Eating lunch next to a carcass of a cow might not the best idea that was had during the tour. But I not sure it was the worst either.

Alec’s Making Money Skills.

I had with me a dust pan and brush. I use it to sweep out the tent. A fellow traveler realised this was a good idea and asked me if they could borrow it. Unfortunately whenever I got the dust pan out Alec would play with it and get upset when I toke it off him. So I told our travel companion that he would have to negotiate with Alec. After much haggling a rental fee was agreed upon. A princely sum of five dollars.

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Alec was very proud of his new-found wealth.

A Big Thankyou.

A single father taking his four-year old son to cross the Simpson desert is not something most parents would think do for a holiday. For some reason, I thought it would be a great idea. I not sure what that makes me. Totally insane maybe.

There are many reasons that I want to do trips such as this one with Alec. I obviously enjoy them but also I want Alec to experience life outside the cosy surrounding’s of the suburbs. To grow up with wonderment and amazement and not to be afraid of world and the people in it.

I like to describe this trip as an adventure and not a holiday. A holiday always sounds like relaxing on a beach drinking cocktails. This trip definitely wasnt that. We had tough times but also many amazing times.

However none of this would have been possible without help. I owe our fellow travellers a huge thankyou. You all toke to Alec and treated him not like a four year old but another person in the group. Including him within the group and maybe spoiling him a touch. All helping to make his trip awesome.

I also thank everyone for helping me. Might have been keeping an eye on Alec while I was busy setting up camp or putting up with a tantum while having lunch. Every little bit helps.

A big thankyou to Paul the managing director of Tag along tours of Australia who was also our guide for this adventure. For taking the risk of letting us do the tour and the many times Alec interrupted during you talks with the group. Your professionalism and dedication to the tour was outstanding.

Thankyou for the amazing memory’s.

 

 

Innamincka to Birdsville

fullsizeoutput_12abWaking up bright and early we ate breakfast and packed the car. I made sure Alec’s DVD player was fully charged and there were plenty of snacks on hand. It’s going to be a long day in the car. After a quick morning briefing we were on our way. The goal today was Windorah, 674 kilometres away.

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On the road again.

Everyone settled in for a day in the car. Driving long distances without stopping spread the vehicles wide apart as were crossed the wide open plans of outback Queensland. Only stopping every couple of hours for breaks as the kilometres ticked over. A mixture of single lane bitumen and well maintained gravel roads saw us make good time. We covered the 674 kilometres in 10 hours. 7 1/2 hours of driving time.

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A lot of the gravel road was wide and straight.

We arrived in Windorah late in the afternoon and set up camp at the council run camp ground. Nothing flash but a welcoming place to spend the night after a long day. Our tour leader got in contact with the local police officer to find out if conditions had changed. The news was mixed. The river had peaked with 600mm of water over the causeway. But the officer didn’t know if the road was closed or open. He would find out and let us know in the morning.

After such a big day, cooking dinner was the last thing I wanted to do. A short walk down the street to the local pub had Alec and myself tucking into a hearty county meal and perhaps a lemonade or two to get rid of the dust.

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One of the locals showing Alec his dog that could do tricks. Alec loved it. One of his tricks was eating Alec’s left over dinner.

The next morning we had some good news. The road was not closed. As long as the vehicle’s could handle the water crossing we were fine to go. With a relative short drive of 400 kilometres to Birdsville, it was a much better option than driving another 1200 kilometres to loop around and enter from the south.

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Discussing the water height with the local policeman.

With spirits high, everyone packed up camp and headed east. With a much shorter day of driving we stopped to do some sight seeing, but still made good progress. Again the road conditions were good. A combination of bitumen and gravel road. As we got closer to Birdsville we started to cross small dunes. A good sign since we were on our way to cross a desert.

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Stopping at a look out, you start to understand how large this county is. It goes forever.

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Having a rest stop. 

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Indigenous artwork of a Dreamtime serpent.

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One of the many small sand dunes on the way to Birdsville. 

20 kilometres from Birdsville everyone had to pull up. We had a water crossing to navigate. A small lake at the base of the dune had been made by the flood waters. The water wasn’t deep but did create a little bit of excitement. With the country so dry it was good to see some water around. Although it was a sobbing reminder of what might lay ahead.

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It was a bit of a surprise to come across this water.

All the vehicles crossed the water without a problem. We then travelled the last 20 kilometres to Birdsville. Well almost. Stopping on the outskirt of town we got our first look at the flooded Diamantina river.

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Welcome to Birdsville. Well almost. We still have to cross a flooded river to get into the town.

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The groups first look at the river.

To cross the Diamantina river and enter Birdsville a bridge and a long causeway has to be crossed. There was no water over bridge only the cause way, in four different places. The first crossing being the deepest. One a time each of the group crossed the deep water. The last 3 sections everyone followed each other though as the water was not very deep.

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Slowly but surely the group crossed the 4 sections of water to get into town.

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The last crossing before town.

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Sweet action shot.

It was with the feeling of triumph and relief as we all rolled into the Birdsville caravan park. Instead of camping, Alec and I decided to stay in a basic cabin again. It was a good choice. With all the water from the flooding the little blood suckers were out in force. Mosquito’s at night and fly’s during the day. Not the best for camping. That night everyone met at the Birdsville Hotel for dinner, happy to final arrive at this historic and famous town.

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Alec enjoying some chill time after a couple of big days.

Alec and I enjoyed a sleep in and a slow breakfast the next morning. This was a scheduled day off. Allowing everyone to sight see and get ready for the desert crossing. We didn’t leave our comfortable cool quarters till midday. We both needed the rest. We then made our way to the famous Birdsville Bakery for a yummy but somewhat unique lunch. We then visited the information centre which had a small indoor play area, which Alec made full use of away from the fly’s and heat.

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Yes Alec is shooing away the fly’s. This the best pic out of 4 others.

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I was told when in Birdsville you have to try the curry camel pie. I had one and it was amazing. Alec prefers the more traditional sausage roll.

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No trip to Birdsville is complete with out visiting the Birdsville Hotel.

Fuelling the car and performing final checks filled in the rest of the afternoon. Having early dinner and bed time allowed us to savour the last time in a bed for some time. Tomorrow we head into the desert.

 

 

While in Birdsville one of our fellow travelers had a birthday and a simple cake was organised. Of course Alec was front and centre for his piece of cake. Which of course was given more than his fair share.

This was a common trend for the trip. Our fellow travelers really toke to Alec and involved him in everything. No to mention a touch of spoiling. I couldn’t have asked for a better bunch of people to travel with.

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